Sunday, November 06, 2005
Weekend in Sapporo Post
I'd like to add images today that aren't as dreary and gloomy as yesterday's grey ocean. On Saturday morning, Mr. Hosono, principal of Shikaoi High School, picked Kevin and I up to go to Sapporo. His wife and daughter (with another living near Tokyo), still lived in the suburbs of Sapporo. (Not to be confused with North American suburbs, in this context I simply mean he doesn't live downtown. Sapporo, like many Japanese cities, supports an amazingly high population density). He tries to go home every weekend and this time took Kevin and I. To continue, we drove their; not my favorite way to get to Sapporo (I love trains!), but Hosono-sensei was good company. And... he knew all the cool places to stop. What better activity to do on a beautiful November day, than... stop for ice cream! And.... this wasn't just some road side store that sold soft ice cream; it was a road side ice cream/fresh fruit cabana run by Japanese hippies!
It's a source of endless enjoyment for Kevin and I to make new discoveries. Again and again it has proven impossible to judge (or guess) the quality (or contents) of a building by its exterior. I had handmade chocolate "ice milk" with bananas and peanuts "mashed in" (right in front of me, for the record); last it was topped with caramel and coco liqueur. Yummy.
Continuing onto activities in Sapporo we visited a park with a beautiful view Sapporo, the Sapporo Christmas Tree inside the Sapporo Beer Factory shopping center (does anyone else find it a bit early for Christmas?), and the JL Tower. The JL Tower is quite a new building, part of an enlargement of Sapporo station, and the observation deck is quite nicely set up. It gives a 360 degree view of Sapporo. I loved going at night. It was like all the stars in the sky had settled, gently, on the ground. I would, furthermore, recommend seeing any city at night. It had been markedly clear on Saturday but it rained overnight and thus Sunday was overcast and hazy. The sun was trying to break through, so it kept the weather warm when we went to Otaru.
Otaru is a harbour city, about 30 min away, but kind of part Sapporo because it's really one large city. It has quite a long history and the downtown has a charming European atmosphere. There were lots of Chinese tourists if that adds another level of verisimilitude for anyone. There is quite a nice water front area with lots of going on; it's centered around a built canal with lots of artists and people. I have some nice pictures of it but I included in this post another image of Otaru. It shows a narrow street climbing the mountainous terrain that defines much of Japan. The sea is a couple of blocks to my back. After I took this shot it was off lunch at a sushiya-san.
Otaru is famous for two things, in my opinion, sushi and music boxes (called oregoru). Kevin and I are trying to repress our memories of the Music Box stores and so I won't go on about that (email me for details). But, as mentioned, Otaru is also known for its sushi. The stores are everywhere, both kaiten and traditional. While walking around we were actually recommended a sushi-ya by some random person. The guy looked a bit sketchy to Kevin and I but Hosono-sensei persisted and it was a surprise hit. One of my vices is that while I like kaiten sushi, the kind that goes around on a conveyer belt, I love traditional sushi restaurants. The interaction with the chef, who you are often sitting in front of at the bar, is too fun. I love asking what's fresh and what they recommend that day. I wasn't completely full when I left ($$$) but was completely content with a delicious meal. I tried Shako, a local delicacy, kind of a shrimp like animal, but not really. And whale...
Did I just hear someone fall over?
Would it help to know that I was assured that it was not a cute whale? I have eaten many other rare things from the ocean and the opportunity was just too good to pass up. It wasn't even on the menu! Before going on about this I will add that the type of whale was a smaller type called, Minke. (Kevin says it is one of the only whale species in the world that is not in decline.) If it sounds like I'm trying to allay my guilt - I'm not - it was delicious. It had been caught early that morning, just out on the open ocean near Otaru. I will add that I was very ignorant about eating whale. We all have a picture of this white blubber, this however was very very red, with a taste not unlike Maguro (tuna). Much to the happiness of the Sushiya-san, I love Toro!
After lunch it was off to see the ocean. From what I have heard, the summer crowds are over overwhelming, but yesterday, we had a rocky out cropping all to ourselves. Being on the Sea of Japan side of Hokkaido the waves were not huge, but I get giddy whenever I see a horizon of just water.
To concluded, the trip was great - if far too quick. Hosono-sensei is very very kind and I will bring him a note this week, in Japanese, expressing - trying to express - my gratitude. He also didn't have any proper beer glasses in his house, a cause I will personally take upon myself to rectify. This week is slow again, fitting the rainy day were having. I have one trip to a kindergarten and also my junior high school. Nothing planned at night except writing. My three year old kindergarteners just stopped by and they remembered me. How sweet. They pointed at something and asked its colour (all 15 students at once mind you) and I would answer in English; a simple game, but endless fun for all involved.
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