Saturday, July 01, 2006

Shikaoi's White Snake Festival


After a busy Saturday of chores (and a run), I attended Shikaoi's White Snake Festival. The festival has become very popular since its conception and is always held on first Saturday of July; also falling on Canada Day this year. The modern Japanese festival has it basis far-back in Ainu tradition, the indigenous people of Hokkaido. I found the festival had surprisingly high production values with big sound and torches lighting the majority of the site, creating a medieval atmosphere. As for Lake Shikaribitsuko where the festival is held, I think Kevin was correct when he described the area as always feeling like autumn. The night was clear and warm and it felt good to get some fresh mountain air in my tired body.

The ritual begins impressively as a boat, guided only by torches, comes ashore baring the two all important white snakes from a scared island located in Lake Shikaribitsuko. Ainu elders lead the pair to a stage where the story of a princess and white snakes unfolds. The dance with the White Snakes is intricate. The White Snakes look delicate and the sharp movements of the dances seem perilous. I have had the opportunity to hold a White Snake and can say there is a firm heft to them. Up close they are beautifully finished; for most of the year they are kept in a large glass case. As far as I know they are hand made specially for Shikaoi by local artisans. The evening was especially entertaining because I saw many people I knew. (Please note Nobu-sama, a firefighter, leading the big snake.)

Also, a cultural phenomenon of interest was the miso soup served through out the night. Delicious it was, probably because it contained a rare trout-like fish found only in Lake Shikaribitsuko. Kevin didn't have any last year because he felt guilty and worried about the fishes' legal status. But I ate my portion - though cautiously looking for bones - without hesitation. We also put lanterns out onto the lake with our wishes written on them that made a very still and beautiful impression to end the evening.



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