Here my Aunt and I are looking out over the celebrated rock garden at Ryoan temple in northern Kyoto. The rock garden is centuries old and the whole temple is now a UNESCO world heritage site. Designed by a mysterious master in the early 1400s, the garden is still raked every morning, giving the impression that little has changed over the centuries in regard to the daily routine of this temple. If one is lucky enough to find a seat on the covered veranda, one can begin to feel the temple's calmness wash over them, at least until a korean tourist askes for your spot.
Koto-in is a ancient bastion of the Japanese tea ceremony and is situated in the much larger Daitoku-ji temple complex in northern Kyoto. Daitoku-ji and it's twenty-four associated sub-temples consitute the center of Rinzai Buddhism. Despite the massive numbers of tourists in Kyoto itself, oasis of calm can be found, reflecting a temple's historical atmosphere. I was happy to capture a little of what it must have been like in the temple's hayday. It sure was a peaceful place. Note the solitary stone lartern that represents the resting place for the ashes of the founder of the temple, a samurai, whose name, I must apoligize, I forget, who dedicated his life to Buddhism and the tea ceremony. It's about 600 years old and looks it if you get to it. Surprisingly, though the site is both a UNESCO world herigate site (what can I say; they're thick on the ground in Kyoto) and old, the lack of barriers and emptiness only adds to the effect that one is stepping back in time. (Until the distance sounds of airplanes bring you back.)
Here is the man himself, the head of the Rinzai-sect of buddhism. He doesn't remember me from when Sean and I bumped into him in a nearly empty temple last year on a rainy Kyoto day. He sure is a happy follow and lucky to boot; Daisen-in is the abbot's residence and home to one of the best examples of Zen rock gardens in the world, rivaling only the previously mentioned Ryoan-ji. The garden is slightly different in character in that, instead of mimicking the ocean like Ryoan-ji, it represents the landscape in miniature. And it really does pull it off convincingly with immaculately manicured plants and natural rocks set at exact angles. No pictures of the garden allowed, which was fine by me, all the better to soak up the experience.
Kiyomizu-dera is important both municipally and nationally. Due to the temple's high altitude, the cherry blossoms were just barely out but the view from the veranda and wonderful architecture make it worth the trip alone. Needless to say, it's also a world heritage site. Please ask uncle Terry what he bought that is connected to this temple - that exact spot actually. Easily the best find on the trip! Despite the beautiful buildings, the temple is actually named for a spring at the bottom supposedly possessing magically properties. However, the only thing the water carries in Spring is dangerous bacteria. Luckily for us, the spring was clear that day and we each drank our fill. The choices were study/academic luck, love luck or business luck. This is in stark contrast to last year when I drank several life times worth of sacred spring water with Sean at a near empty Kiyomizu-dera. I think I'm covered for life now.
Okay. Finally here is a place Sean and I didn't go last time becuase it was closed for the New Year's holidays; Nijo Castle. Not quite as impressive militarily as Japan's Himeji Castle, it is still important enough to be called a world hertigate site because of it's architectural importance and priceless painted silk screens. It recalls nothing of the austere Kiyomizu-dera, instead - because of the shoguns need to perpetuate his weath and power over the emperor - it has a much more glamourous flamboyant style with gilt-gold and fine carvings. Ninja fans will also appreciate Nijo castle; in constrast to the grandeur of the rooms, it is a labyrinth of secrets doors and booby-traps. My favorite being the nightingale floors that are made to squeak as a person passes over them making ambush impossible. In modern times the squeaking continually plays in visitors' ears as they tour the building to great effect.
I would be remiss not mentioning the dinner on the last night before we parted ways. I am very greatful to my Aunt and Uncle to have the opportunity to return to Yoshizen. There is a lot to say about a meal this caliber, in addition to all the contrasts between what we assume Japanese cuisine to be and the reality. There were thirteen courses, each more grand than the last. The next morning we were sure to write down each before we forgot. I was feeling especially lucky because spring mountain vegtables (sansai) were in season which means one can eat plants in their young stages that aren't normal that good or even edible. I love sansai soba or tempra but Master Yoshi took everything to another level. In the picture, Master Yoshi is to the right and while Mrs. Nakai, our kind and helpful friend, sneaks behind the bar to take a picture. Not too many pictures tho, we were busy eating! A big thank-you to my Aunt and Uncle!
From the restaurant, feeling content from a meal boarding on the divine, Mrs. Nakai guided us down a street known for its night view of the Sakura. The streets were pretty full but we quickly gained strength as our spirits rose in tandem with the other merry onlookers; everyone's mood buoyed by the sight before them; happy Spring had finally come and offered them such bessings as Nature saw fit.
And it bares mentioning one last time (I promise it's the last time); everywhere blooming cherry trees! Amazing!
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